[JoeNC]

I have this rattle too. Appears to be the one where the panel above driver footwell slightly touches the trim next to it. Thought it was in the middle of the panel (along back edge) so I folded a paper towel and slid it in to stop the movement. It’s still happening though and now I think it’s the right side of that panel and not the middle. Not going to take it to dealer for just that, so I’ll move the paper towel around.

[VirtualGuitars]

Originally Posted by JoeNC

I have this rattle too. Appears to be the one where the panel above driver footwell slightly touches the trim next to it. Thought it was in the middle of the panel (along back edge) so I folded a paper towel and slid it in to stop the movement. It’s still happening though and now I think it’s the right side of that panel and not the middle. Not going to take it to dealer for just that, so I’ll move the paper towel around.

Yup. That’s where the dealer found my issue the first time. They added some neoprene strips to solve the issue. Then it creeped up again in the center part underneath the dash panels. Same remedy.

[Jeff661]

Originally Posted by JoeNC

I have this rattle too. Appears to be the one where the panel above driver footwell slightly touches the trim next to it. Thought it was in the middle of the panel (along back edge) so I folded a paper towel and slid it in to stop the movement. It’s still happening though and now I think it’s the right side of that panel and not the middle. Not going to take it to dealer for just that, so I’ll move the paper towel around.

That’s what I thought mine was too. I did the same and inserted material into the gaps and slid the material around but couldn’t make the ticking stop.

[JoeNC]

Funny enough, while hearing it again, I reached down and pushed up on the right side of that panel and the noise stopped. Haven’t heard it since my last post, so if it starts again I’ll put something on that side.

[330 CSi]

Originally Posted by JoeNC

Funny enough, while hearing it again, I reached down and pushed up on the right side of that panel and the noise stopped. Haven’t heard it since my last post, so if it starts again I’ll put something on that side.

Which panel?

[JoeNC]

Originally Posted by 330 CSi

Which panel?

It’s this panel that wraps around that airbag in the footwell.

I was pushing up on the right side above where the pedals enter the panel.

[330 CSi]

Originally Posted by JoeNC

It’s this panel that wraps around that airbag in the footwell.

I was pushing up on the right side above where the pedals enter the panel.

Thanks!

[cpd1]

Dropped the car off to fix the rattle this week. Despite explaining to them in some details, they obviously didn't fix it.
They mentioned they tightened the screen support which was loose...
Based on comments here, I decided to give it a go. In case others want to try, details below.
Easy to remove panel above pedal, you have two plastic screws to twist by hand then gentle pull down. Don't forget to unplug speaker and light cables...I removed the dead pedal, easy pull but be careful as it hooks at the top of the panel.
The sound deadening they used has an adhesive back but not very well applied on the honeycomb structure which generate the noise as it moves around.
I used some Velcro felt and double sided tape to improve. Also trimmed the sound deadening.
Hopefully that fixes it, 15 min job, will report back post road test.

[RealBmwBoy]

Originally Posted by cpd1

Dropped the car off to fix the rattle this week. Despite explaining to them in some details, they obviously didn't fix it.
They mentioned they tightened the screen support which was loose...
Based on comments here, I decided to give it a go. In case others want to try, details below.
Easy to remove panel above pedal, you have two plastic screws to twist by hand then gentle pull down. Don't forget to unplug speaker and light cables...I removed the dead pedal, easy pull but be careful as it hooks at the top of the panel.
The sound deadening they used has an adhesive back but not very well applied on the honeycomb structure which generate the noise as it moves around.
I used some Velcro felt and double sided tape to improve. Also trimmed the sound deadening.
Hopefully that fixes it, 15 min job, will report back post road test.

How is your road test ?

[shoot_the_goalie]

This is a very annoying problem. My rattle/creak came back. Finally took to dealer and they couldn't fix it after a week and it wasn't worth keeping in the shop for more time. For me it's not the panel, as I drove around without the panel on and the sound was still there. It almost sounds like a creaking noise, that makes the soft "clicks", as if some part is under stress when you go over bumps or rough rough. Still doesn't affect performance, but the sound does get irritating when the entire car is so quiet.

[Jeff661]

Originally Posted by shoot_the_goalie

This is a very annoying problem. My rattle/creak came back. Finally took to dealer and they couldn't fix it after a week and it wasn't worth keeping in the shop for more time. For me it's not the panel, as I drove around without the panel on and the sound was still there. It almost sounds like a creaking noise, that makes the soft "clicks", as if some part is under stress when you go over bumps or rough rough. Still doesn't affect performance, but the sound does get irritating when the entire car is so quiet.

This sounds similar to the issue I had. The dealer kept my car 3 weeks total I think. Problem was a wire bundle that was not properly attached. My dealer gave me a loaner for the full time. I would take the car back and let them have it until it’s fixed.

[shoot_the_goalie]

Originally Posted by Jeff661

This sounds similar to the issue I had. The dealer kept my car 3 weeks total I think. Problem was a wire bundle that was not properly attached. My dealer gave me a loaner for the full time. I would take the car back and let them have it until it’s fixed.

Do you by any chance have the service receipt or details of what/where they made the repair? I think it would be helpful if I can tell my BMW service center about the general area of the wire bundle so that they could save some time in searching. No worries if you don't have that info. Thanks.

[Jeff661]

Originally Posted by shoot_the_goalie

Do you by any chance have the service receipt or details of what/where they made the repair? I think it would be helpful if I can tell my BMW service center about the general area of the wire bundle so that they could save some time in searching. No worries if you don't have that info. Thanks.

Sorry, I looked and can’t find the paperwork. I must have thrown it out. What I remember was that there was a wire bundle that wasn’t attached to the clip that was designed to hold it.

[shoot_the_goalie]

reviving this thread, cause I FINALLY got my clicking/creaking noise fixed. Took my car to the dealer and they figured out that the noise was coming from within the drivers side dashboard panel. So they ended up opening up the dash covers, insulated, and re-assembled. No more noise!!! So happy.

[Tigershark321]

Wow, you guys have dealerships and technicians who want to help and resolve. I gave up on the dealership where I acquired my 2024 iX after 4 visits and only once time they attempt adding insulation within my driver's door. The service department went as far as to tell me they wouldn't see the car anymore until it became a worsening issue (really? It is a $90k car.... would expect a different answer). Packed up and went to the other dealership in town which they claimed it "within normal BMW standards" and a foreman who came with me saying it may be too hard to locate making it virtually impossible to fix.

Mine is a clicking, buzzing, and even to the worst extent a drone on the highways when the roads reach a certain texture that occurs when the car reaches a harmonic vibration. The dealerships actually refuse to drive this car outside of the city limits and I was kinda upset because I was excited to road trip with the car, but if I have to hear "that" noise potentially every 3-5 seconds, no. Around town and highways it is random clicks and buzzes. I may end up just requesting a buyback at 3k miles because it seems no one wants to investigate and risk not getting paid for warranty work. No clue how that process works but it was suggested from a service advisor from the other dealership in town.

[Windshieldfarmer]

Originally Posted by Tigershark321

Wow, you guys have dealerships and technicians who want to help and resolve. I gave up on the dealership where I acquired my 2024 iX after 4 visits and only once time they attempt adding insulation within my driver's door. The service department went as far as to tell me they wouldn't see the car anymore until it became a worsening issue (really? It is a $90k car.... would expect a different answer). Packed up and went to the other dealership in town which they claimed it "within normal BMW standards" and a foreman who came with me saying it may be too hard to locate making it virtually impossible to fix.

Mine is a clicking, buzzing, and even to the worst extent a drone on the highways when the roads reach a certain texture that occurs when the car reaches a harmonic vibration. The dealerships actually refuse to drive this car outside of the city limits and I was kinda upset because I was excited to road trip with the car, but if I have to hear "that" noise potentially every 3-5 seconds, no. Around town and highways it is random clicks and buzzes. I may end up just requesting a buyback at 3k miles because it seems no one wants to investigate and risk not getting paid for warranty work. No clue how that process works but it was suggested from a service advisor from the other dealership in town.

I suspect your probability of success on a buyout request will be next to zero. If a technician won’t acknowledge a problem I don’t think BMW will honor your request. I’m not diminishing your frustration, just trying to be realistic. Hopefully I am wrong….

[NomoTesla]

Originally Posted by Tigershark321

I may end up just requesting a buyback at 3k miles because it seems no one wants to investigate and risk not getting paid for warranty work. No clue how that process works but it was suggested from a service advisor from the other dealership in town.

I suspect you'll have difficulty getting BMW to buy back your car over a rattle that the service foreman cannot reproduce. That's not what the buyback process is for.

[Tigershark321]

Well it has gotten so bad this past week of time that I ended up pulling into the BMW dealership and got a foreman to sit in the car with me and witness it first-hand - though he said there are major challenges to fix it. I jokingly keep saying from the beginning when mine started to replace the entire door so we can stop wasting time and send in that door to BMW to figure it out themselves. Just felt very validating versus "boy who cried wolf" as I have been dealing with this now since the beginning of January. If I can get that buzzing, crackling, clicking to go away - 100% satisfaction with the car.

[RealBmwBoy]

Originally Posted by Tigershark321

Well it has gotten so bad this past week of time that I ended up pulling into the BMW dealership and got a foreman to sit in the car with me and witness it first-hand - though he said there are major challenges to fix it. I jokingly keep saying from the beginning when mine started to replace the entire door so we can stop wasting time and send in that door to BMW to figure it out themselves. Just felt very validating versus "boy who cried wolf" as I have been dealing with this now since the beginning of January. If I can get that buzzing, crackling, clicking to go away - 100% satisfaction with the car.

I totally understand how you feel. I have visited the dealership more than 15 times just to fix creaking/rattle noises. However, the rattling noise under the driver-side dashboard still exists, so I will need to visit them soon.

[Tigershark321]

Progress! Thank you, Lord.

"Update on the car, we have heard the rattle. I'm sending over the exact note from the foreman: Heard rattle a couple of times road testing today. Removed driver door panel, insulated some of the mounting points, plastic framework behind door panel and also found the window switch unit was rattling some, insulated that as well. Road tested, did not hear the noise. The noise is very intermittent, going to road test several more times over the next couple of days and see what happens."

My response: Thank you and make it go away forever.

[Tigershark321]

I am digging this thread back up for people who may experience a very similar issue as I have experienced which I think is important. Keep fighting the good fight to resolve the issue. So after 2 full attempts of placing butyl tape and finding a loose window switch at the new dealership service department (I fired the place where I leased the vehicle from due to their negligence towards me and refusal to drive the car where noises were reproduced), they gave up on the door and replaced the entire driver's door panel. During that waiting period, my passenger door started to rattle and shake just like the driver's door in the same spot. So far they added butyl tape to the armrest of that door in hopes everything holds and noises go away. I have a feeling I may be replacing another door panel in the near future. I have lost a bit of confidence in the build quality of my vehicle in comparison to other '24 iX.

I hope my story within this thread may guide others who may experience the same issues I had. It has been a long dragged-out process for sure.

[shoot_the_goalie]

I'm wondering if these noise/creaks/rattles are due to the bespoke nature of the iX's design.

My major click/creak went away after the techs removed the dashboard panel and insulated, but now I have another (though much less annoying and quieter) rattle from another area now that appeared about a month after I got the first noise fixed.

At least this new one is much quieter, but I fear it could intensify over time.