[D Unit]

Let the modding begin...

Step 1) Buy wheels... Check.

Step 2) Buy coilovers... oops: Nope. Buy springs. Check.

Step 3) Buy lip kit... Check.

Step 4) Buy i3... Check.
Step 5) Code car at EAS in Anaheim. Check.
Step 6) Buy level 2 charger. Check. Got the ClipperCreek HCS-50P on sale.

Step 7) Install 240v 50amp circuit in the garage. Check. I ended spending less than $30 at Home Depot for a Nema 14-50 receptacle, cover plate, and 50 amp breaker.


I ended up detailing my car on Saturday (wash, iron x, clay, meguiars m105, meguiars m205, and cquartz) and installing H&R springs today on Sunday. The spring install was probably the easiest bimmer I've ever lowered but the rears is a 2 man job. Took us about 3 hours from start to finish without rushing.

[reductase]

[D Unit]

Got the new tires and wheels installed last night at America's Tires. My friend did a quick photoshoot of the car this morning using his iphone X in the parking lot. Turned out pretty well for a phone camera... LOL.

[jmg]

Wow! I haven't seen many modded i3s! Looks nice! Hows the ride feel lowered on these tires?

[D Unit]

H&Rs are a must IMO. Springs alone rides better than stock. Adding the 20s made it a bit stiffer but still a very nice ride overall.

[baldyloxx]

Very nice looking i3.. When will you install the front lip?

Do you know what offset those HRE's have? I'm considering a set myself, but in a different flavor..

[D Unit]

Not sure when the lip will be ready. It just arrived at IND in Chicago from Japan. They are going to paint the lip and the bumper light covers piano black like the hood. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.

As for the HREs, they will not disclose their offsets unfortunately. They are very aggressive. Hopefully when the new i3s gets released, I can try to retrofit the fender flares to my car.

[baldyloxx]

nice looking ride, no flares needed..

[phattbam]

how come none of the pics load for me.

[D Unit]

Here's my alignment specs after lowering. According to the shop, there was no front camber adjustment but -1.0 and -1.2 seem pretty reasonable. Unfortunately for the rear, the best they could do was -1.8.

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by baldyloxx

nice looking ride, no flares needed..

Hmm... Not sure why man? Are you behind your work firewall that block Google "My Drive"?

Here's my current subwoofer project to add to the HK system. The box will be located on the driver's side wedged in the trunk. I chose the shallow subwoofer to reduce the depth as much as possible but big enough for the enclosure to be ported and tuned for 32Hz. Sub will be fed with 600W at 2 ohm by an efficient class D amp. Stay tuned.

[baldyloxx]

I took my i3 to CoastMotorWerks (CMW) here in Orange County and they were able to get all wheels Camber/Toe within the BMW range of spec... With the exception of one of the Fronts, which is .1deg off.. They told me that they could buy a new knuckle and that may fix the 'issue'.... I think I will hardly feel .1deg difference on the road.. haha

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by baldyloxx

I took my i3 to CoastMotorWerks (CMW) here in Orange County and they were able to get all wheels Camber/Toe within the BMW range of spec... With the exception of one of the Fronts, which is .1deg off.. They told me that they could buy a new knuckle and that may fix the 'issue'.... I think I will hardly feel .1deg difference on the road.. haha

I'm jealous man. I got my alignment done at Roger Kraus Racing in Bay Area, CA and they are the best shop I know of locally. Would it be possible for you to upload your alignment specs?

[Cepheus]

What is the wheel spec?

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by Cepheus

What is the wheel spec?

Sorry, but HRE does not share their wheels specs... Wierd, right?!

Hard wired my Thinkware f100 dash cam to the fuse panel to utilize the parking mode feature. The dash cam basically records all the time, but when it senses the battery is running low, it will shut itself off after parking for a long period of time. I configured the dash cam to shut off when the battery reaches 12.2 volts.

3 wires
yellow - constant 12v to fuse #62 (used a standard add-a-fuse with 5 amp)
red - ACC wire to fuse #51 (used a mini-add-a-fuse with 5 amp)
black - ground wire to any exposed metal portion near fuse box



I got the 2 channel system and was able to tuck all the wires cleanly and out of site.

[baldyloxx]

Originally Posted by D Unit

I'm jealous man. I got my alignment done at Roger Kraus Racing in Bay Area, CA and they are the best shop I know of locally. Would it be possible for you to upload your alignment specs?

Front Right..

[Toalmar]

how long time for changing the springs front and rear?

[baldyloxx]

I had CMW do that for me as well. ‘Half a days’ time is the norm.. 4hours or so. Could take longer if you don’t have the rite tools. A full car lift, damper/spring compressors and such makes it much easier.

[Powerbeast]

Looks great man, nice to see my old wheels on a forum members i3!

[D Unit]

Originally Posted by Powerbeast

Looks great man, nice to see my old wheels on a forum members i3!

Were you the original owner of the wheels? They guy I bought them from was from Pleasant Hill in the Bay Area.

[Powerbeast]

Originally Posted by D Unit

Were you the original owner of the wheels? They guy I bought them from was from Pleasant Hill in the Bay Area.

Originally Posted by D Unit

Were you the original owner of the wheels? They guy I bought them from was from Pleasant Hill in the Bay Area.

Yeah exactly I sold him the car as is. Yours came out great! Actually looking for another i3!