[thebishman]

Originally Posted by ok31

Thank you for the comprehensive summary. The answer to all is yes and yes the RMA was for the entire unit including cable.

The ONLY thing at this point I’m considering is creating a whole new chargepoint app account. I don’t know why that would be a thing but why not.

Another potential is to get a temp EV loaner and try at the house to rule out vehicle or house. If another BMW stops working then MAYBE CP in a software update did something and like you said switched soft place of inputs, wouldn’t explain why my would and friends wouldn’t but…

Not to belabor the point but have you attempted to charge the car with the CP parameters turned way down from your original and current 60A max/48A continuous? I would suggest 32A continuous btw.

You can turn down the CP amperage within the CP app; that is where I would start.

Good luck!

[exxxviii]

Originally Posted by thebishman

Not to belabor the point but have you attempted to charge the car with the CP parameters turned way down from your original and current 60A max/48A continuous?

See point #10: https://bmwi.bimmerpost.com/forums/s...6&postcount=43

[ok31]

Originally Posted by thebishman

Not to belabor the point but have you attempted to charge the car with the CP parameters turned way down from your original and current 60A max/48A continuous? I would suggest 32A continuous btw.

You can turn down the CP amperage within the CP app; that is where I would start.

Good luck!

I adjusted output but never reset the breaker amp. I did just now remove charger from account and plugged in completely unregistered. My understanding is it turns down to 16A but in either case that didn’t work. Removing account confirms it’s not a setting nor WiFi nor any other glitch because it’s not tied to anything. Unplugging the CP and immediately plugging in another charger works. Proposed to dealer that I bring charger and car to them in case they are able to connect charger. Waiting for response. ChargePoint support responsiveness is far from impressive at the escalation level and to get to that level you have to talk to first level that is reading a script. severely disappointed.

[thebishman]

Originally Posted by exxxviii

See point #10: https://bmwi.bimmerpost.com/forums/s...6&postcount=43

Sorry, missed that. That was a damn good post btw!

[exxxviii]

Originally Posted by thebishman

Sorry, missed that. That was a damn good post btw!

Thanks. There was so much shared, and it is such a perplexing problem, I wanted to get all the nuggets in one place.

[Paladin1]

Good synopsis. As an observation, a breaker doesn't need to trip to cause a charging fault, overheat or intermittently fail. A breaker will eventually wear out (or can be faulty to begin with), connections can be loose, or any number of other source problems. Replacing it (with a known, good breaker) would rule out one possibility.

[ok31]

Originally Posted by exxxviii

Thanks. There was so much shared, and it is such a perplexing problem, I wanted to get all the nuggets in one place.

Perplexing indeed. I’m wondering IF there is an issue with wiring, maybe the car knows something is off and stops but the Jeep Willy isn’t as “smart”?

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

Good synopsis. As an observation, a breaker doesn't need to trip to cause a charging fault, overheat or intermittently fail. A breaker will eventually wear out (or can be faulty to begin with), connections can be loose, or any number of other source problems. Replacing it (with a known, good breaker) would rule out one possibility.

I’m checking with dealer if they can connect my charger somewhere in their shop and if yes, will leave the car and charger. That will at least isolate the issue.

[exxxviii]

Originally Posted by ok31

Perplexing indeed. I’m wondering IF there is an issue with wiring, maybe the car knows something is off and stops but the Jeep Willy isn’t as “smart”?

One more diagnosis thought... When the Audi or Jeep were charging, did either one report volts and amps? I could see a situation in which the voltage drop is out of spec for the BMW but not those two.

I would do what Paladin1 suggested above: replace the circuit breaker. The reasoning is that maybe you have a bad connection or issue in the breaker causing a voltage drop. Replacing it and securing the wiring again could correct it (and eliminate another possible cause).

I would also put a voltmeter on the ChargePoint and service panel to see exactly what the voltage drop is.

[ok31]

Originally Posted by exxxviii

One more diagnosis thought... When the Audi or Jeep were charging, did either one report volts and amps? I could see a situation in which the voltage drop is out of spec for the BMW but not those two.

I would do what Paladin1 suggested above: replace the circuit breaker. The reasoning is that maybe you have a bad connection or issue in the breaker causing a voltage drop. Replacing it and securing the wiring again could correct it (and eliminate another possible cause).

I would also put a voltmeter on the ChargePoint and service panel to see exactly what the voltage drop is.

Will try that, started thinking along the same lines, maybe the jeep was taking because it’s not as smart so it would take whatever it’s given but maybe BMW is more sophisticated - leave it to German engineering to complicate matters or maybe not. Never got a chance to test with Audi.

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

Good synopsis. As an observation, a breaker doesn't need to trip to cause a charging fault, overheat or intermittently fail. A breaker will eventually wear out (or can be faulty to begin with), connections can be loose, or any number of other source problems. Replacing it (with a known, good breaker) would rule out one possibility.

Will try this weekend. Don’t have much to lose except maybe some dignity but I guess it makes sense if breaker isn’t giving full output and the BMW is trying to get all of it and shuts off. Guess makes sense just very sensitive if that’s the case.

Stay tuned…

[ok31]

Breaker swapped, no luck. Beginning to STRONGLY suspect another bad charger?

[Paladin1]

Except - didn't it work with other cars?

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

Except - didn't it work with other cars?

The only one I tried, jeep, yes it worked so I’m completely out of ideas.

[Paladin1]

It's a puzzler, but you seem to have isolated it - somewhat - to the car itself, at least the car paired with your home setup. The CP EVSE works with other cars, circuit works (absent some finding by an electrician, if you choose), other EVSEs work with your car outside your house. Car doesn't work in your house with your existing setup. This points to some unknown interaction with your car, your home EVSE and/or your home circuit. One variable you haven't tried is a different EVSE. That would narrow it down pending results to either some interaction with the CP EVSE by itself and your car (if the swap is successful), or your home circuit + CP and your car (if not). Got to be a frustrating hunt.

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

It's a puzzler, but you seem to have isolated it - somewhat - to the car itself, at least the car paired with your home setup. The CP EVSE works with other cars, circuit works (absent some finding by an electrician, if you choose), other EVSEs work with your car outside your house. Car doesn't work in your house with your existing setup. This points to some unknown interaction with your car, your home EVSE and/or your home circuit. One variable you haven't tried is a different EVSE. That would narrow it down pending results to either some interaction with the CP EVSE by itself and your car (if the swap is successful), or your home circuit + CP and your car (if not). Got to be a frustrating hunt.

I’ve just also toned out the wires and get the 220 where I need and 120 where I need so wiring seems to be fine. It’s almost like something in software is blocking. I’m considering a different charger just to test but seems like a hassle but, return. Hoping dealer can take the charger and car to play with.

Bad second/replacement charger?

[Paladin1]

Could happen, however unlikely it might be. “When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.” (A.C. Doyle)

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

Could happen, however unlikely it might be. “When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.” (A.C. Doyle)

What would that be?

So I compared my friend’s unit to mine - they sent me the Nema 50 version wonder if that makes a difference if hardwired to 60a?

The other difference is firmware 5.5.4.4 on theirs vs 5.5.4.8

[Paladin1]

The difference in versions is that you won't get a cord and plug with the hardwired version, and the hardwired version works with breakers rated to 80 amps - the HomeFlex can be set to deliver up to 50A in the hardwired configuration. In your case with your description, I assume you have a 60A breaker delivering 48A to the car (hardwired) - outlet circuits generally have a 50A breaker. Most code also now requires a GFCI breaker inline. That's why I suggested that a qualified electrician familiar with EV installation check your setup, to make sure everything is torqued to spec and wired to spec. Your CP unit charges other cars, so something in your car seems to be causing the glitch. That may or may not be related to the way your CP unit is set up, or as you speculate something in the software settings of car or CP app.

[ok31]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

The difference in versions is that you won't get a cord and plug with the hardwired version, and the hardwired version works with breakers rated to 80 amps - the HomeFlex can be set to deliver up to 50A in the hardwired configuration. In your case with your description, I assume you have a 60A breaker delivering 48A to the car (hardwired) - outlet circuits generally have a 50A breaker. Most code also now requires a GFCI breaker inline. That's why I suggested that a qualified electrician familiar with EV installation check your setup, to make sure everything is torqued to spec and wired to spec. Your CP unit charges other cars, so something in your car seems to be causing the glitch. That may or may not be related to the way your CP unit is set up, or as you speculate something in the software settings of car or CP app.

Yes, 60a wired to code on a #6 wire. So this charger and my car but my car works with that other CP 5.5.4.4

[ok31]

can whoever has a chargepoint flex, please post the firmware version? another avenue I'm looking down is the firmware version between when it worked and when it stopped. the new unit is on 5.5.4.8, the old unit I can't recall but friend who has 5.5.4.4 has it working for me. I don't know when 5.5.4.4 came out, according to the support line the new version was about 3 weeks ago which brings it to the March 8 timeline. I can't recall if I had tried charging on March 4th or not but the next time an attempt was made was March 8 or 9. March 10 is when I made the first call to support after having realized the issue.

[exxxviii]

Originally Posted by ok31

can whoever has a chargepoint flex, please post the firmware version?

Mine is 5.5.3.13. Not sure I even know how to update it. And not sure if I want to.