05-09-2018, 06:08 PM | #1 |
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2015 BMW i8 Overheating issue
Hi Guys-
My bmw i8 had a small leak in the coolant line, they replaced it but ever since then they cannot get it run without over-heating. They have tried everything and honestly they are out of ideas. They are getting bmw involved, but was hoping somebody else may have had a similar issue (not wishing this upon anybody thats for sure), but would be interested to see what fixed it? Best Josh |
05-10-2018, 03:17 AM | #2 | |
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Quote:
When my fuel tank sensor was replaced, the dealer had to empty the cooling system and had trouble getting it to run without overheating. I think the final conclusion was an air pocket somewhere in the system. BMW were involved no doubt (as they usually are with iProblems) I suspect your dealer had to empty the coolant before replacing the pipe, maybe had problems filling it back up? The system is different to other BMWs as the radiators are at the front and engine in the back so may need special techniques! Might be worth mentioning that Stratstone's BMW, Leeds, UK have seen and fixed a problem that sounds similar.
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05-10-2018, 08:51 AM | #3 |
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The only reasonable explanation is that when they replaced the coolant line they didn’t pressure bleed the system and left air in the system.
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05-10-2018, 09:01 AM | #4 |
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As everyone else had supposed, and really not sure why your service center would not have considered this..., but it sounds like air trapped in the system.
Full disclosure: I don't know anything specific about the cooling system in the i8, but this would be a typical symptom in most other cars...
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05-10-2018, 03:16 PM | #5 |
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Air trapped is a possibility. Or maybe someone accidentally dropped a washer down a hose? I’m sure they will have looked at water pump, thermostat, etc ...
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05-10-2018, 03:19 PM | #6 |
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They need to suck the coolant under vacuum, through the pipework. This avoids an airlock. Dealer should know this!
My dealer did that when they replaced my fuel tank pressure sensor. It's been fine since. |
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05-12-2018, 08:27 AM | #7 |
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I really appreciate everyone's comments. They have done 1 hour bleeds on all the lines with no luck at all. They have also replaced everything, the lines, pumps, electronics with no luck and Monday starts week 4. Yesterday they did 9 bleeds trying to find the air pockets....seems crazy....a month without the car is unacceptable for what we paid for these things.
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05-12-2018, 04:31 PM | #9 |
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Wow....
Sounds like a nightmare. Hope they figure it out soon. |
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05-16-2018, 03:38 PM | #11 |
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Here is how to bleed the cooling system on the i8
For the bleeding of the high-temperature cooling circuit proceed in the same way as the procedure for conventional vehicles. However, unlike in the low-temperature cooling circuit, the bleeding procedure does not end automatically, but must be independently completed by a Service employee. 1 Evacuate and fill cooling system using vacuum filling device. Remove the vacuum filling device after the filling procedure is completed. 2 When the expansion tank is open, open the bleeder screw for 20 seconds. 3 Close the bleeder screw and expansion tank again. 4 Terminal 15 ON, set IHKA controls to 28 °C / 82 °F at blower speed 1 and "Air conditioning OFF". 5 Press the accelerator pedal for about 20 seconds at full load (engine OFF). 6 Start combustion engine in selector lever position "P" with Automatic Hold brake engaged. 7 Increase engine speed using accelerator pedal 4 times for about 5 to 10 seconds to roughly 3500 rpm, with a 10 second interval between the respective engine speed increases. Repeat procedure every 2 minutes for about 16 to 18 minutes. 8 Increase engine speed using accelerator pedal 4 times for about 5 to 10 seconds to roughly 5500 rpm, with a 10 second interval between the respective engine speed increases. 9 After 20 minutes carry out a test drive in selector lever position "S" and with heating turned on fully. 10 The ventilation is completed as soon as hot air flows continuously from the air outlets. 11 Adapt coolant in the cooled down state to MAX filling level. |
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12-22-2020, 04:49 AM | #14 |
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I'm bumping this as it's the only thread I can find that describes almost the same identical issue that I have.
One hour bleeds; water pump/thermostat replaced. We've done a bunch of independent tests to make sure the head gasket is not blown and it continues to drive normally until the yellow "Engine Over Temp" light comes up on iDrive. I know an air pocket is likely but what has anyone first hand corrected this? If so what was the action. |
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