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      08-13-2016, 12:07 PM   #1
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Has anyone really drag raced your i8 and if so, did you engage launch control?
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      08-24-2016, 03:32 PM   #2
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I tried to. Seemed simple enough from the owners manual but it wouldn't engage on my car. Perhaps because I only had 300 miles on the odometer. Owner manual says something about 1,200 miles...maybe the feature is unlocked after achieving a certain number of miles.
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      08-24-2016, 10:17 PM   #3
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Yes. Against a tuned ATS-V. Results with LC and without were night and day. With LC it's an easy win for the i8 without it's an ass whooping by the V.
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      08-25-2016, 08:53 AM   #4
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Do we have an accurate 0-60 measurement? I'm seeing times (by magazines) which are all over the map. Seen them as low as 3.6 and as high as 4.4

Should we just split the difference and say 4-flat?
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      08-25-2016, 09:21 AM   #5
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I think performance depends on a state of battery charge, as an example last night doing eco-pro 50mph and trying to make a fast line change ... switching to sport with kick down and battery at zero and car pulling like its only about 250hp and may be only using gas engine at this moment

you can install app, BMW M Laptimer, connect your iPhone thru USB cable and measure your 0-60


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Originally Posted by jnkirk1974 View Post
Do we have an accurate 0-60 measurement? I'm seeing times (by magazines) which are all over the map. Seen them as low as 3.6 and as high as 4.4

Should we just split the difference and say 4-flat?
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      08-25-2016, 09:34 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by mikenyc View Post
I think performance depends on a state of battery charge, as an example last night doing eco-pro 50mph and trying to make a fast line change ... switching to sport with kick down and battery at zero and car pulling like its only about 250hp and may be only using gas engine at this moment

you can install app, BMW M Laptimer, connect your iPhone thru USB cable and measure your 0-60
How about if your car has 12 miles range vs 5 miles range? Better performance or same?
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      08-25-2016, 09:54 AM   #7
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How about if your car has 12 miles range vs 5 miles range? Better performance or same?
I would say its more depends on a % of charge with >40% should be at close to max potential which is sometimes equal to 5-10 miles range, but I bet battery at 95% will give us a better 0-60

Also as we all know turbo optimal condition: sea level and outside temp should be in 55-65 F range for max output

too many variables in this car and all should play together to get best 0-60 time

for me it always feels like something wrong with my car and that it doesn't pool enough for the specs and online reports, my X6 50 always feels like faster than i8
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      08-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #8
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I don't think state of charge makes that much of a difference. All you need is sufficient charge for a few seconds of boost. And the little segments at the top of the tach / energy meter gauge show you how much boost you've got. That can be full even if your battery is far from full. There's only so much that the e motor can consume in any moment in time. A gas engine doesn't run stronger with a full tanke either, after all (actually slower due to weight).

I think the different times are more likely down to testing conditions, and whether LC was used or not.
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      08-25-2016, 01:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mikenyc View Post
I think performance depends on a state of battery charge, as an example last night doing eco-pro 50mph and trying to make a fast line change ... switching to sport with kick down and battery at zero and car pulling like its only about 250hp and may be only using gas engine at this moment

you can install app, BMW M Laptimer, connect your iPhone thru USB cable and measure your 0-60
I don't think I've seen my car do that. In my experience, even if you fully drain the battery in e mode to the point where the engine comes on, the battery isn't really empty. There's still some charge for boost (as indicated by the e-boost meter), or for backing the car into a spot. Now, I'm sure if you keep asking for boost in that situation, it will eventually be depleted. But I've never seen that.

I wonder if your performance problem had more to do with trying to do engine on, engage sport, and kick-down all at once and out of the blue. Maybe engine management kicked in and reduced power to prevent too much strain hitting a cold engine.
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      08-25-2016, 02:13 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Aye-eight View Post
I don't think I've seen my car do that. In my experience, even if you fully drain the battery in e mode to the point where the engine comes on, the battery isn't really empty. There's still some charge for boost (as indicated by the e-boost meter), or for backing the car into a spot. Now, I'm sure if you keep asking for boost in that situation, it will eventually be depleted. But I've never seen that.

I wonder if your performance problem had more to do with trying to do engine on, engage sport, and kick-down all at once and out of the blue. Maybe engine management kicked in and reduced power to prevent too much strain hitting a cold engine.
we had 82F last night and car been on a road for a min of 5-7 min before that kick down moment
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      08-25-2016, 02:47 PM   #11
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Exclamation

based on recent Tesla announcement that all old P90 cars will be able to switch to a new battery from P100 and get a better performance based on a battery only , I would suspect more battery = more potential power for electric motor ... and yes according to basic physics its not true , but together with complicated computer/charging interplay its adds up to the speed of electric motor spin.

BMW limits battery drain and stop it from draining at about +/-20-30% * we have 7.1kwh battery but in reality we only have 5+kwh ) and at this point you cant drain anything towards kick-down unless you charge it again above 20-30% at least +5-10%


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Originally Posted by Aye-eight View Post
I don't think state of charge makes that much of a difference. All you need is sufficient charge for a few seconds of boost. And the little segments at the top of the tach / energy meter gauge show you how much boost you've got. That can be full even if your battery is far from full. There's only so much that the e motor can consume in any moment in time. A gas engine doesn't run stronger with a full tanke either, after all (actually slower due to weight).

I think the different times are more likely down to testing conditions, and whether LC was used or not.
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      08-26-2016, 12:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mikenyc View Post
based on recent Tesla announcement that all old P90 cars will be able to switch to a new battery from P100 and get a better performance based on a battery only , I would suspect more battery = more potential power for electric motor ... and yes according to basic physics its not true , but together with complicated computer/charging interplay its adds up to the speed of electric motor spin.

BMW limits battery drain and stop it from draining at about +/-20-30% * we have 7.1kwh battery but in reality we only have 5+kwh ) and at this point you cant drain anything towards kick-down unless you charge it again above 20-30% at least +5-10%
The new Tesla batteries are "more complicated", according to Tesla, and they are expecting a supply shortage. So the performance upgrade will come from other things than just higher capacity. Tesla always tinkers with the settings and programming of their cars.

The difference between the 7.1 and the 5.2 is exactly that discharge safety marging that is supposed to ensure a longer battery life. The 5.2 is what's indicated on your battery meter and when charging, and it's fully usable. You can see that, for instance, when you do the math on distance driven and e consumption indicated by the trip computer. I have never seen my car drop power when under 20 or 30% charge of the battery. That would be silly - especially since you can drive that charge right down to nothing in all e mode.
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      08-26-2016, 12:52 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mikenyc View Post
we had 82F last night and car been on a road for a min of 5-7 min before that kick down moment
The car tells you if you get boost or not in sport mode - a thin blue ring inside the tach that lights up when you step on the gas.
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      08-26-2016, 04:25 PM   #14
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The car tells you if you get boost or not in sport mode - a thin blue ring inside the tach that lights up when you step on the gas.
Does that mean the electric motor is not used at all if the boost ring is not lit up? I was under the impression (from my sales guy) that it's never gas only...either full hybrid at all times or electric only in e-drive.
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      08-27-2016, 01:59 PM   #15
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Does that mean the electric motor is not used at all if the boost ring is not lit up? I was under the impression (from my sales guy) that it's never gas only...either full hybrid at all times or electric only in e-drive.
According to my power meter readings, there's a little pull from the e-motor on high-speed cruise - around 2 or 3 kWh per 100 km. But whenever you ask the car to accelerate, the front wheels kick in with force.
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      08-28-2016, 01:39 PM   #16
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Just did 2 runs

5.3 with usual day to day condition - full gas tank and almost full charge , me and my 5yo son with air conditioning on - no lunch control

4.8 no AC and LC on - I will try more but this is not a very good numbers

I will do similar runs with my x6 and I bet I will get a better numbers.
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      08-28-2016, 03:14 PM   #17
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One more LC run after 45 min rest stop about 75% charge no AC

This time on a spec 4.4 - but far from expected
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      08-28-2016, 04:04 PM   #18
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I think state of charge makes a huge difference. Just open the eDrive settings where the battery charge is shown as a %, put your foot down and go for the limiter, you'll see what I mean. The battery percentage drops alarmingly fast at a rate of about 0.5% per second in my experience. So my guess is if you start your pull with a low enough charge, you'll run out of juice mid-run and the car will be slower than if you had started with more juice.

P.S. Not condoning anything illegal, so try this at your own risk and hopefully on a private road or at a track.
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      08-28-2016, 05:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Twitch Massacre View Post
I think state of charge makes a huge difference. Just open the eDrive settings where the battery charge is shown as a %, put your foot down and go for the limiter, you'll see what I mean. The battery percentage drops alarmingly fast at a rate of about 0.5% per second in my experience. So my guess is if you start your pull with a low enough charge, you'll run out of juice mid-run and the car will be slower than if you had started with more juice.

P.S. Not condoning anything illegal, so try this at your own risk and hopefully on a private road or at a track.
Okay, just following up on your math. (Very) conservatively assuming that 0-60 would take 5 secs, and the charge drops by 0.5% per sec, you should get full pull throughout the run as long as you have more than 2.5% charge left. So really, no difference as long as your battery isn't fully depleted. A 2.5% charge equals what - half a mile? By that time, your range meter would already read "--".

Or did you mean 5% per sec? In which case, a 25% charge would still be enough. But I've never stepped on it for 5 secs and suddenly lost 25% of my range as a result.
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      08-28-2016, 05:54 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aye-eight
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Originally Posted by Twitch Massacre View Post
I think state of charge makes a huge difference. Just open the eDrive settings where the battery charge is shown as a %, put your foot down and go for the limiter, you'll see what I mean. The battery percentage drops alarmingly fast at a rate of about 0.5% per second in my experience. So my guess is if you start your pull with a low enough charge, you'll run out of juice mid-run and the car will be slower than if you had started with more juice.

P.S. Not condoning anything illegal, so try this at your own risk and hopefully on a private road or at a track.
Okay, just following up on your math. (Very) conservatively assuming that 0-60 would take 5 secs, and the charge drops by 0.5% per sec, you should get full pull throughout the run as long as you have more than 2.5% charge left. So really, no difference as long as your battery isn't fully depleted. A 2.5% charge equals what - half a mile? By that time, your range meter would already read "--".

Or did you mean 5% pet sec? In which case, a 25% charge would still be enough. But I've never stepped on it for 5 secs and suddenly lost 25% of my range as a result.
0.5% is correct. Now if I understood correctly, 2.5% is all we need for a launch from 0-60 at full potential, but then insufficient for a 1/4 mile run. It would seem state of charge does influence performance significantly depending on the charge level and the distance you want to travel while full throttle. Anyways, I'm going to see if I can responsibly double check my 0.5%/sec calculation.
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      08-28-2016, 08:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikenyc
One more LC run after 45 min rest stop about 75% charge no AC

This time on a spec 4.4 - but far from expected
From my experience, .5-.6 seconds can be attributed to road conditions, tires not ring warm enough, wind, etc. I think a solid road 4.4 second 0-60 times equates to an optimal 0-60 times if 3.8 seconds. Very few cars (perhaps only a Porsche 918) can consistently beat factory numbers on the public road
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      08-29-2016, 01:13 AM   #22
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0.5% is correct. Now if I understood correctly, 2.5% is all we need for a launch from 0-60 at full potential, but then insufficient for a 1/4 mile run. It would seem state of charge does influence performance significantly depending on the charge level and the distance you want to travel while full throttle. Anyways, I'm going to see if I can responsibly double check my 0.5%/sec calculation.
What would you need for a 12-sec quarter mile run? 6% charge. Still nearly empty.

Of course, state of charge makes a difference if you run out of juice in the middle of your acceleration. My point was: if you're stepping on it for a quick lane change, the amount of power you get is not dependent on whether the battery has 10% or 30% or 90% charge at that point. You'll get what the e motor is capable of, not less.
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