I found "the problem"...
Would you believe Maxhaust doesn't currently have an ANDROID version of their app for the new sound module?
You need an Apple device to control the new sound module!!!! (currently, anyway)
I didn't see any of the new sound module features in the current Android app, and I couldn't find a Beta App for Android, so I thought I would try the latest IOS app. Luckily I had an old iPad nearby!
Also a few observations/tips regarding the install...
CANBUS Wires: I gotta call bullshit on the "some i8's have the wires one way and some i8's have the wires the other way" crap. BMW doesn't do some cars one way and some cars the other...
The Blue Canbus wire goes to pin 1 and the White CANBUS wire goes to pin 2 on the little connector. If there is any discrepancy with this layout, it is likely because the Maxhaust wiring is not consistent (not BMWs wiring).
The Maxhaust Power Wire: The Maxhaust Power Wire is terribly undersized. (It looks to be only about 20-24 Ga) Regardless of how many amps the wire is actually asked to carry, the voltage loss would be completely unacceptable. (
https://www.bluesea.com/support/arti...r_a_DC_Circuit). Even the wire on the little power tap is 16 Ga! Maybe the Maxhaust devices are more tolerant of the voltage drop, but if I'm going through all the hassle of running a power wire to the back of the car, I'm going do do it with a proper size wire. I ran a 10 Ga wire. Its also a bit stiffer and will help if you need to poke or guide it somewhere.
The "Blue Plug": I'm pretty sure the reason many people are bypassing this plug is because they don't have the connector pins fully inserted! If you have ANY PORTION of the metal connectors sticking out the back of the plug, then you don't have them fully inserted and you won't get a reliable (or maybe any) connection. I spent a lot of time with this just to get it right.
If you look at the plug when it arrives you will note that the holes for the Black and Black/Grey connectors have been hogged out at the Maxhaust shop. The connectors on the Black and Black/Grey wires simply weren't made for this type of connector. That's why they hogged out the respective holes. The connectors are VERY tight when inserted and if these holes aren't done perfectly, then the connectors won't slide all the way down into the plug and the little purple locking mechanism wont close (thats a clue). I spent probably an hour with a small triangular jewelers file, and running back and forth to the car, to get these holes fitted properly. Take the time to clean them out and square up the internal corners of each hole and the plug will work. It looks like they used a round bit to hog out those holes so the corners won't be square enough.
Once you clean out and square up each hole, you should be able to push each wire FULLY into the blue plug. Use needle nose pliers to push on the connector (not the wire) so you have a good solid pushing surface. You can also use the pliers to pull the connector back out (NOT the wire) if you need to refit. The connectors should go ALL THE WAY in to the plug. You should have no "tail" from the metal connectors "protruding from the back of the plug. If you see ANY metal from each connector sticking out the back of the plug, then your connectors aren't fully seated. You can also use the tip of a jewelers screwdriver to help push the connectors firmly into the plug. The blade of the screwdriver will fit right into the hole and push on the front of the connector. Once you have both connectors fully inserted, the purple locking clip should be closable. (You may also have to file/trim the holes in the locking clip)
I did my install on my 2019 Roadster. Obviously the routing of the power wire is quite different than the coupe (although I did route it under the door sill (above the rocker panel). There is quite a lot of disassembly required on the Roadster, but one you make it to the back of the Roof Storage Compartment its very easy. Don't be shy removing panels and it should all go pretty quickly. With the Roadster, you will want to do much of the routing with the roof PARTIALLY open so you can get into the roof storage area.
Here is a list of the panels I had to remove on the Roadster in the approximate order (sorry, no photos - once I get going...):
1. You will want to unbolt the seat belts from the floor of the car so you can completely remove the big panel we are going to do next.
2. The big upper panel that runs all the way across the back of the Roadster. (It has the upper speaker grills in it). It mostly just snaps out but there is one trim rivet on each side of the car, which has to be removed from within the roof cavity. These two rivets are located just behind the top, outside corner of this panel on each side of the car.
3. A little panel inside the cubby behind the passenger seat. Its inside the cubby and defines the oboard wall of the cubby. Pull one trim rivet, tip it out from the back and it will unhook at the front.
4. That little panel we just removed now makes it easy to remove the little panel just in front of it and behind the door sill (as removed in the OP's posting). This one has two inboard snaps to be pulled straight out (inboard) and then two sliding fasteners which will slide inwards so you can remove the panel.
5. Loosen the outboard trim panel inside the roof storage cavity just behind the passenger. I don't think you can completely remove it without disassembling the roof, but all you need to do is loosen it so you can get your hand behind it to help route your power cable. There is one clearly visible trim rivet in this panel but you will also want to pull out the "roof retractor cable rivets" to loosen the cable. (Curiously, I found that BMW used one zip tie were they probably should have used a cable trim rivet!)
6. Remove the big trim panel which runs all the way across the back of the roof storage cavity. If memory serves, there are about 9-10 clearly visible trim rivets which have to be removed before the panel can be snapped out.
Once you got all of those panels removed, you can run your power wire. I used my own 10 Guage wire and ran from the front to the back (I thought this would be easier). Here's the routing:
a. Fuse box
b. Door Sill (as in OP's posting)
c. Then follow along the big cable bundle coming up and out of the back of the door sill.
d. I pushed my relatively stiff wire, along the path of the big bundle, and down along the outside bottom corner of the roof storage cavity. This path is easily visible and obvious when looking via the door sill.
e. I then used a very stiff piece of wire to reach down and hook the end of the wire and bring it up thought the outside edge of the roof cavity and towards the upper rear bulkhead of the cavity. You will want to leave enough cable slack here so the cable runs along the bottom of the cavity and then up the rear outside corner. This will ensure your cable does not get bound up in the roof mechanicals.
f. There is a little plastic wire conduit/manifold on the rear bulkhead of the roof cavity at the top outside passenger corner. I pushed my wire through that manifold.
g. After exiting the conduit/manifold its a quick shot through the big rubber cable grommet and into the trunk area.
It probably took me 2-3 hours to do the entire disassembly and wire routing as there was no existing info on this. I'm also pretty patient and careful. But the path is pretty self evident if you take the time to get the panels off. Basically just following a bug bundle of wires which routes out the back of the door sill and then into/under the roof cavity, then up the back of the cavity and through the rear firewall at a very conveniently placed rubber cable grommet.
I'll be happy to help answer any questions that anyone may have (to the best of my ability). But no, I'm not going to disassemble the car again just for photos... ;-)