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      08-14-2019, 06:47 PM   #661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLABRO View Post
Great post. How do you know when it's time to thatch? I have done just a little area (5x5') in my back yard in the past and got a good amount of 'thatch' and I did it with just a rake.

I'm thinking I need to do my yard because the grass is a little thin in spots. When I do a "pull test", some grass comes up as well. The 'thin' sports aren't real noticeable from more than 3-4' away, but if you get down on your knee and part the grass with your hands, you can tell it's quite thin in certain areas. It almost seems like water and nutrients may not be soaking down to the root as well as it should be and just kind of stagnating on top of the soil thus the reason some grass pulls out when I do a pull test.

Almost indicating the roots could be shallow or something. Need all those nutrients to get down deep!!!

This is my first season more involved with the yard so I have a lot to learn, but have already learned quite a bit from this thread and the lawn care nut and other videos on YouTube.
I learned from the lawn gurus of YouTube. for dethatching usually it's at the beginning of Spring to get all the dead grass up. and than in the fall time just before you reseed if you plan on reseeding. I dethatched because I had lawn fungus and a lot of the dead grass was just sitting here. so the dethatcher helped pull most of it out.

if you're pulling up a patch of grass and it's actually coming up it could be quite a few things. one it could be grubs are eating your roots. is the grass brown? also, it could be the roots are very shallow and not deep enough to hold. I use RGS to stimulate root growth. since Fall is upon us I would think about doing a dethatch, aerate and an overseeding since you're saying your lawn looks a bit thin. i'm looking to do this at the beginning of September.

This year is pretty much done if you ask me as far as trying to develop a deeper root system. I would suggest doing this next year. look into the NEXT products particularly RGS and HUMIC12. that's going to help amend your soil and promote Root development

Allyn the Lawn Care Nut has already put out a couple of videos on overseeding since it's coming up
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      08-15-2019, 09:33 AM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
I learned from the lawn gurus of YouTube. for dethatching usually it's at the beginning of Spring to get all the dead grass up. and than in the fall time just before you reseed if you plan on reseeding. I dethatched because I had lawn fungus and a lot of the dead grass was just sitting here. so the dethatcher helped pull most of it out.

if you're pulling up a patch of grass and it's actually coming up it could be quite a few things. one it could be grubs are eating your roots. is the grass brown? also, it could be the roots are very shallow and not deep enough to hold. I use RGS to stimulate root growth. since Fall is upon us I would think about doing a dethatch, aerate and an overseeding since you're saying your lawn looks a bit thin. i'm looking to do this at the beginning of September.

This year is pretty much done if you ask me as far as trying to develop a deeper root system. I would suggest doing this next year. look into the NEXT products particularly RGS and HUMIC12. that's going to help amend your soil and promote Root development

Allyn the Lawn Care Nut has already put out a couple of videos on overseeding since it's coming up
The grass is quite green. It's Bermuda. And to be honest, I had never done a 'pull test' before so I'm not exactly sure what is normal and abnormal. Not all of the grass will pull out and it won't leave a bare spot or anything like that. But if I picked 5 random spots for the test, I'd say 3 out of the 5 spots I'd pull out just some grass (maybe 25-30% will come out from what I pulled). However, I'm not pulling very hard at all. I'm going to do a catch cup test to see how my sprinklers are performing and if they need to be adjusted. I feel like sometimes the water in certain areas from the sprinkler just stands on top of the soil so that could be the issue in this specific areas where the grass is slightly thinner than the rest of the yard. The root system could be going back up towards the top of the soil (where the stagnate water is) instead of penetrating down deep and then would be harder to pull out during a pull test? Maybe I need to aerate the yard too.

Granted, I've never seeded my lawn or overseeeded (whichever is the correct term) and that was my first thought as to why it's a little thin in areas. Should you be seeding your lawn every year? For perspective, we bought the house about 5 years ago (new house and new sod) and haven't ever seeded it. Maybe the reason for some thinness in certain areas is because I've never seeded in 5-6 years and just expected it would remain thick with the proper mowing, water, etc.
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      08-15-2019, 12:24 PM   #663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLABRO View Post
The grass is quite green. It's Bermuda. And to be honest, I had never done a 'pull test' before so I'm not exactly sure what is normal and abnormal. Not all of the grass will pull out and it won't leave a bare spot or anything like that. But if I picked 5 random spots for the test, I'd say 3 out of the 5 spots I'd pull out just some grass (maybe 25-30% will come out from what I pulled). However, I'm not pulling very hard at all. I'm going to do a catch cup test to see how my sprinklers are performing and if they need to be adjusted. I feel like sometimes the water in certain areas from the sprinkler just stands on top of the soil so that could be the issue in this specific areas where the grass is slightly thinner than the rest of the yard. The root system could be going back up towards the top of the soil (where the stagnate water is) instead of penetrating down deep and then would be harder to pull out during a pull test? Maybe I need to aerate the yard too.

Granted, I've never seeded my lawn or overseeeded (whichever is the correct term) and that was my first thought as to why it's a little thin in areas. Should you be seeding your lawn every year? For perspective, we bought the house about 5 years ago (new house and new sod) and haven't ever seeded it. Maybe the reason for some thinness in certain areas is because I've never seeded in 5-6 years and just expected it would remain thick with the proper mowing, water, etc.
Pull test could be subjective. If it's not brown but green and some of it pulls up it could just be shallow roots or you're the Incredible Hulk lol! I would aerate just to let your lawn breathe. Dethatch would help too in case you've never done it for five years. Do the tuna can method for the sprinkler test. Remember 1" of water per week. I usually keep an eye on the weather to determine if I need to run my sprinklers. Usually 3 days apart or four. Like I said earlier I would look into soil amendments as next years project.

Usually with overseeding people will do that just to get the lawn to thicken up for next year before the lawn goes into winter dormancy. If your lawn is thin now I highly recommend doing it at the beginning of September. You need almost 45 days for the lawn to establish itself after germination is complete. Plus I saw that you can't really mow for about a month after seeding. So a complete dethatch, than aerate, than overseed and starter fertilizer. You have Bermuda so I believe that type of grass spreads so you might be good not to overseed. It's your call. My lawn is thick and thin so I haven't overseed for 3 years. This year I will overseed because I have Turf Type Tall Fescue so the variety I have doesn't spread as much
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      08-15-2019, 04:09 PM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Pull test could be subjective. If it's not brown but green and some of it pulls up it could just be shallow roots or you're the Incredible Hulk lol! I would aerate just to let your lawn breathe. Dethatch would help too in case you've never done it for five years. Do the tuna can method for the sprinkler test. Remember 1" of water per week. I usually keep an eye on the weather to determine if I need to run my sprinklers. Usually 3 days apart or four. Like I said earlier I would look into soil amendments as next years project.

Usually with overseeding people will do that just to get the lawn to thicken up for next year before the lawn goes into winter dormancy. If your lawn is thin now I highly recommend doing it at the beginning of September. You need almost 45 days for the lawn to establish itself after germination is complete. Plus I saw that you can't really mow for about a month after seeding. So a complete dethatch, than aerate, than overseed and starter fertilizer. You have Bermuda so I believe that type of grass spreads so you might be good not to overseed. It's your call. My lawn is thick and thin so I haven't overseed for 3 years. This year I will overseed because I have Turf Type Tall Fescue so the variety I have doesn't spread as much
So much good info. Thank you!

I'm going to do the tuna can test this weekend because I think my watering could need some tweaking. Thinking shallow-ish root system. Also going to send in a soil sample to Oklahoma State University (apparently you can send them soil samples and then in 2-3 weeks they'll return hand written recommendations to improve the soil).

Here in Oklahoma, we have A LOT of clay (part of the reason why we don't have basements here) which will contribute (good and bad) to soil conditions, watering amount, etc. so soil test will be cool to see and beneficial. Want to also aerate and dethatch as well. So much to do!
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      08-15-2019, 05:02 PM   #665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLABRO View Post
So much good info. Thank you!

I'm going to do the tuna can test this weekend because I think my watering could need some tweaking. Thinking shallow-ish root system. Also going to send in a soil sample to Oklahoma State University (apparently you can send them soil samples and then in 2-3 weeks they'll return hand written recommendations to improve the soil).

Here in Oklahoma, we have A LOT of clay (part of the reason why we don't have basements here) which will contribute (good and bad) to soil conditions, watering amount, etc. so soil test will be cool to see and beneficial. Want to also aerate and dethatch as well. So much to do!
I have yet done a soil sample test lol! I know I should do it. Maybe next year. Here in OH we have clay too! But I will say my soil is alot better now than when I first moved in. I've been treating it for the last 2 years and it shows especially when I aerate. I can see what the soil looks like.
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      08-21-2019, 11:04 PM   #666
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Lime tree is doing well.
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      08-22-2019, 12:19 AM   #667
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Got Stripes?



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      08-22-2019, 07:58 AM   #668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsturbointeg View Post
Off work today so I decided that it was time to dethatch the yard. First time using this tow behind 42" Brinly Dethatcher I picked up last year. Assembly was pretty easy. Only took me 30 minutes

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And here's my AgriFab 52" Lawn Sweeper. Love this thing! Very useful in the Fall time to pick up all the leaves. This is also great to use to pick up all the thatch vs raking it up by hand especially with a 1/2 acre. It literally took me and my boys last year from morning till the evening to do what we did this afternoon in about 1.5 hours. After everything was done I had about 10 bags of thatch. That just shows how important it is to dethatch your lawn. Helps let the lawn breath and allow water, fertilizer and nutrients to feed the grass as well as amend the soil
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Hey that looks like a husky fast tractor. I have one as well. Are you having any issues with the fwd and reverse pedal? Mine has gotten to the point of sticking when I change direction. I need to push in the brake to go from fwd to reverse and did not have to when I first purchased. Not a lot I have found online regarding the issue. Curious if you have any thoughts?
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      08-22-2019, 08:24 AM   #669
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Hey that looks like a husky fast tractor. I have one as well. Are you having any issues with the fwd and reverse pedal? Mine has gotten to the point of sticking when I change direction. I need to push in the brake to go from fwd to reverse and did not have to when I first purchased. Not a lot I have found online regarding the issue. Curious if you have any thoughts?
Mine's a Husqvarna. But I've seen videos if the issue you're experiencing. If it's the same issue this guy actually had to trim down something that was getting the way from going into reverse. The newer Husqvarnas have fixed that issue
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      08-22-2019, 01:36 PM   #670
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it's that time of the year to overseed!
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      08-26-2019, 01:48 AM   #671
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what a Weekend! i'm sun burned and I must've burned some crazie amount of calories. Anyways, before overseeding I had to cut the grass down to about 2.5"...bagged it all up using the lawn sweeper. probably about 13 full bags. than I went back to detach the yard so that way the seed would have better seed to soil contact. this was all done on Saturday. On Sunday I had the yard aerated to open things up. did at least a good 4 passes in each direction. with all that done it was time to overseed. 3lbs per 1,000 sqft of Pete's GCI Turf Type Tall Fescue 50lb bag. Also picked up a couple of bags of starter fertilizer from Menards. from what I gather I shouldn't be doing any type of mowing for at least month until the seeds have gotten some good rooting to hold onto. i'll post some pictures as they do
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      08-31-2019, 08:34 AM   #672
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had to get a picture of this Nikko Blue which isn't blue but pink lol!
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      09-10-2019, 05:23 PM   #673
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exactly 17 days later here's what the overseeding looks like! this was a barespot that's filling in nicely. again, this is GCI Pete's Turf Type Tall Fescue



and here's the yard. took a bunch of pictures to show you guys! it's doing very well. haven't mowed the lawn for 17 days and I can't mow until the 15th of this month which would be a total of 3 weeks. grass is about 6"+ tall








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      09-10-2019, 05:27 PM   #674
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ay look at the domination line! BTW, my neighbor has brown patches everywhere on his lawn because he decided to use a Weed and Grass killer to kill of his weeds. I asked him what he was doing and he showed me what he's using and I told him that's going to not only kill the weed...but the grass as well! sure enough his lawn looks like a spotted leopard lol!
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      09-10-2019, 05:33 PM   #675
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Nikko blue which never turned blue lol is huge!


Summer Sweet Hydrangeas doing well. rained quite a bit they flopped over



not sure what these are called but they are a bee haven!


found this bird nest in my Norway Spruce


Pinky Winky Hydrangea blooming
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      09-11-2019, 07:26 AM   #676
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You have such a beautiful yard. I'll get some pictures later today.
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      09-11-2019, 02:50 PM   #677
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haven't mowed the lawn for 17 days and I can't mow until the 15th of this month which would be a total of 3 weeks. grass is about 6"+ tall
Contacting HOA now

I started watering last week, so that for my son's bday party on the 21st it will look nice. That last bag of Milorganite got spread around. I had forgotten how bad that smells once you apply water!
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      09-11-2019, 04:41 PM   #678
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So I know I have st. Augustine grass there. What else is going on?
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      09-11-2019, 04:44 PM   #679
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Contacting HOA now

I started watering last week, so that for my son's bday party on the 21st it will look nice. That last bag of Milorganite got spread around. I had forgotten how bad that smells once you apply water!
Milo... the smell of success! ~Allyn Hayne "The Lawn Care Nut"

their price for Milo has gone up from what I use to pay $12.64 to $15 a bag. I would need 10 bags for my lawn @ $150. CarbonX is only $64.95 and 1 bag covers all my yard so i'm saving big time plus it's gone more nutrients than Milo

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So I know I have st. Augustine grass there. What else is going on?
all I see is St Augustine. looks really good. nice, thick and green!
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Last edited by lsturbointeg; 09-11-2019 at 04:49 PM..
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      09-11-2019, 04:48 PM   #680
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What does everyone put down for weed prevention?
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      09-11-2019, 05:14 PM   #681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knowthebattle View Post
What does everyone put down for weed prevention?
here's what I use early Spring. good for 3 months. this will take care of all Crabgrass and Broadleaf weeds.



anything that still comes through i'll spot treat using this from Menards
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      09-12-2019, 11:10 PM   #682
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This is my first season w/o Turf Care and my 2nd season w/ a lawn I had to maintain so I'm learning a LOT this year. Experienced the joys of no pre-M this year but also believe I needed a fungicide regimen under Turf Care and now. I put down a Group 3 a while back and it solved an early onset of rust. Unfortunately, I believe I have brown patch and leaf spot after the cool nights, rains, and humidity. My Group 3 will work but it is recommended to switch up which group is used so the bastards are less likely to develop a resistance to it. Hot damn....Group 11's are pricey. Looks like Azoxy 50 WDG will be the most cost effective at $188/16oz.

For weeds, I'll likely used either Dimension and/or Prodiamine as pre-M's. I found a local nursery that sells a 25-0-5 fert (prills) that has Dimension as part of the mix. I'll use that for my late spring fert. Then use Prodiamine as a follow-on pre-M late summer.

For spot (or blanket) spraying, I've been using either Q4+ or T-zone. It just depends on what is coming up in my lawn. The latter is cheaper and does a # of broadleaf weeds but the former will handle a wider array of broadleaf (incl crabgrass). I bought a big jug of both from Lawn & Pest Control Supply. I use it in conjunction w/ Signal (blue dye) so I can see what/where I've sprayed.

https://www.lawnandpestcontrolsupply...iant=289408798
https://www.lawnandpestcontrolsupply...105eb386&_ss=r
https://www.lawnandpestcontrolsupply...a46e98d2&_ss=r
https://www.lawnandpestcontrolsupply...5e16f98a&_ss=r
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source...e-p-12184.html
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