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      03-05-2021, 08:36 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by TommyG-inFlaNow View Post
That is dope, I guarantee you could sell those...not to me, but many people would buy that. Build a base that fits our cupholders and you'll be golden
It's a pain in the rear to print and takes many hours. Probably not worth selling.
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      03-05-2021, 08:39 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
No, Resin printers are different from typical 3d printers that print PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, etc.

Resin printing uses a liquid resin vs. a filament.
Yet strangely and inexplicably, in the world of injection molding, thermoplastics like ABS and PETU are referred to as "resin" in their bulk form.
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      03-05-2021, 10:53 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by TommyG-inFlaNow View Post
That is dope, I guarantee you could sell those...not to me, but many people would buy that. Build a base that fits our cupholders and you'll be golden
My cell with case fits perfectly in the cup holder standing up or defaults in my wifi charger in the arm rest. But since I already have the cup holder area designed...might make one this weekend with that above seat. Nice to see no restrictive license on the design if in the event it turns into a selling product. Cage for sizing/time purposes wouldn't be included. Plus I like to keep that flap closed by default so not really something I would use tbh.
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      03-05-2021, 01:55 PM   #26
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I did a lot of 3D printing, I own 3 printers.
I don't have much time since the pandemic hit (go figure)
For example I spent 1 year to do the iron man costume for Halloween.

And yes, this is a 3D printed arc reactor inside... And the helmet is motorized.
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      03-05-2021, 03:11 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by frchdragon View Post
I did a lot of 3D printing, I own 3 printers.
I don't have much time since the pandemic hit (go figure)
For example I spent 1 year to do the iron man costume for Halloween.

And yes, this is a 3D printed arc reactor inside... And the helmet is motorized.
Only those that 3D print can REALLY apricate this. Nice job!
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      03-14-2021, 02:34 PM   #28
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This thread is evil! EVIL, I say! How dare it prey on my already waning resistance to picking up a 3D printer.

Ender 3 v2 on order. Waiting for it to ship. 2 reels of PLA and some other bits already arrived.

What software are you guys using?
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      03-14-2021, 03:58 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by bosstones View Post
This thread is evil! EVIL, I say! How dare it prey on my already waning resistance to picking up a 3D printer.

Ender 3 v2 on order. Waiting for it to ship. 2 reels of PLA and some other bits already arrived.

What software are you guys using?
I use a Mac so I slice with Cura. I have octoprint setup on a raspberry pi so I can print remotely (Cura has plugins for it)

Otherwise you can just slice with cura and drop the file on a micro SD card and pop it in the printer. The ender 3 v2 comes with an 8GB micro SD if you don't have one.

The ender 3 v2 seems like a great option for beginners like myself. Takes a bit of trial and error to get settings correct. But I've had more successes than failures.

Feel free to shoot me a message (or ask here) if you need any tips.

Also, if you're in the US, make sure your power supply is flipped to the 115v setting. Mine came defaulted to 230v.
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      03-15-2021, 02:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
I use a Mac so I slice with Cura. I have octoprint setup on a raspberry pi so I can print remotely (Cura has plugins for it)

Otherwise you can just slice with cura and drop the file on a micro SD card and pop it in the printer. The ender 3 v2 comes with an 8GB micro SD if you don't have one.

The ender 3 v2 seems like a great option for beginners like myself. Takes a bit of trial and error to get settings correct. But I've had more successes than failures.

Feel free to shoot me a message (or ask here) if you need any tips.

Also, if you're in the US, make sure your power supply is flipped to the 115v setting. Mine came defaulted to 230v.
Yep, good info here. Octoprint rocks. I design in Fusion360 and slice with Cura as well.

General contribution for this thread: I worked for a while in a huge product development studio in Brooklyn that had ~50 printers, probably 20 different models ranging from Ender 3's to $6k Ultimakers. I worked with all of them and can confidently say that if you put the time in and don't mind sacrificing some comfort features (auto-leveling, etc.), then an Ender 3 can most certainly compete with a printer 10x the cost.

I myself have an Ender 3 with about $100 in mods that consistently prints with production-level quality. I love it, especially for the ~$400 I have into it.

Moral of the story: Ender 3 is a phenomenal place to start, and has way more bandwidth than most give it credit for.
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      03-15-2021, 03:59 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odiford View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
I use a Mac so I slice with Cura. I have octoprint setup on a raspberry pi so I can print remotely (Cura has plugins for it)

Otherwise you can just slice with cura and drop the file on a micro SD card and pop it in the printer. The ender 3 v2 comes with an 8GB micro SD if you don't have one.

The ender 3 v2 seems like a great option for beginners like myself. Takes a bit of trial and error to get settings correct. But I've had more successes than failures.

Feel free to shoot me a message (or ask here) if you need any tips.

Also, if you're in the US, make sure your power supply is flipped to the 115v setting. Mine came defaulted to 230v.
Yep, good info here. Octoprint rocks. I design in Fusion360 and slice with Cura as well.

General contribution for this thread: I worked for a while in a huge product development studio in Brooklyn that had ~50 printers, probably 20 different models ranging from Ender 3's to $6k Ultimakers. I worked with all of them and can confidently say that if you put the time in and don't mind sacrificing some comfort features (auto-leveling, etc.), then an Ender 3 can most certainly compete with a printer 10x the cost.

I myself have an Ender 3 with about $100 in mods that consistently prints with production-level quality. I love it, especially for the ~$400 I have into it.

Moral of the story: Ender 3 is a phenomenal place to start, and has way more bandwidth than most give it credit for.
You could even get a bltouch if you wanted auto bed leveling
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      03-15-2021, 05:33 PM   #32
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Thanks, guys. Seems like Cura is a good way to go wrt slicer and they have a Windows flavor.

I have sketch-Up currently but will give the hobbyist version of Fusion 360 a go.

Still waiting for my shipping notice.

@detroitm2, thanks for the tip on voltage. I wouldn't have thought of that coming out of the box.

odiford , what sort of mods would you suggest?
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      03-15-2021, 08:04 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosstones View Post
Thanks, guys. Seems like Cura is a good way to go wrt slicer and they have a Windows flavor.

I have sketch-Up currently but will give the hobbyist version of Fusion 360 a go.

Still waiting for my shipping notice.

@detroitm2, thanks for the tip on voltage. I wouldn't have thought of that coming out of the box.

odiford , what sort of mods would you suggest?
I started with an aluminum drive feed assembly (stock plastic flexes too much), a low tolerance bowden tube, and stiffer bed springs. All of this is <$50.

Later on I added a direct-drive conversion because I started printing super soft TPU and some iron-composites that were getting clogged in the bowden. This requires some adjustments in Cura to work properly but is very much worth it for materials other than ABS or PLA.

There are also a few mods you can 3D print which is pretty ironic, but most are convenience oriented like wire clips and such.

Editing to add that this is much like car build conversations where the best thing you can improve is the nut behind the wheel. Until you really get the hang of bed leveling and fine tuning slicer settings, you won't notice much difference from the new parts.
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      03-15-2021, 08:05 PM   #34
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Please print out some nice carbon fiber goodies for our cars.
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      03-15-2021, 09:06 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odiford View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bosstones View Post
Thanks, guys. Seems like Cura is a good way to go wrt slicer and they have a Windows flavor.

I have sketch-Up currently but will give the hobbyist version of Fusion 360 a go.

Still waiting for my shipping notice.

@detroitm2, thanks for the tip on voltage. I wouldn't have thought of that coming out of the box.

odiford , what sort of mods would you suggest?
I started with an aluminum drive feed assembly (stock plastic flexes too much), a low tolerance bowden tube, and stiffer bed springs. All of this is <$50.

Later on I added a direct-drive conversion because I started printing super soft TPU and some iron-composites that were getting clogged in the bowden. This requires some adjustments in Cura to work properly but is very much worth it for materials other than ABS or PLA.

There are also a few mods you can 3D print which is pretty ironic, but most are convenience oriented like wire clips and such.

Editing to add that this is much like car build conversations where the best thing you can improve is the nut behind the wheel. Until you really get the hang of bed leveling and fine tuning slicer settings, you won't notice much difference from the new parts.
The upgrade bowden tube is a must if you're printing PETG or anything that requires higher extrusion temp. Was also one of the first mods I did.
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      03-16-2021, 07:09 PM   #36
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Gonna print that little plastic latch that holds down the armrest cover that EVERYONE breaks. Print that in carbon fiber resin. Sell to people here. Retire 12 minutes earlier than planned.
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      03-17-2021, 11:46 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary_william View Post
Gonna print that little plastic latch that holds down the armrest cover that EVERYONE breaks. Print that in carbon fiber resin. Sell to people here. Retire 12 minutes earlier than planned.
I guess I'm not a part of everyone, because I have no idea what you are talking about.

Group buy?
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      03-19-2021, 10:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
The upgrade bowden tube is a must if you're printing PETG or anything that requires higher extrusion temp. Was also one of the first mods I did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by odiford View Post
I started with an aluminum drive feed assembly (stock plastic flexes too much), a low tolerance bowden tube, and stiffer bed springs. All of this is <$50.

Later on I added a direct-drive conversion because I started printing super soft TPU and some iron-composites that were getting clogged in the bowden. This requires some adjustments in Cura to work properly but is very much worth it for materials other than ABS or PLA.

There are also a few mods you can 3D print which is pretty ironic, but most are convenience oriented like wire clips and such.

Editing to add that this is much like car build conversations where the best thing you can improve is the nut behind the wheel. Until you really get the hang of bed leveling and fine tuning slicer settings, you won't notice much difference from the new parts.
I ordered a different bowden tube off Amazon when I bough a couple of PLA spools. It's killing me that I'm still waiting for a shipping notice for the printer itself, though. I ordered it direct vs off Amazon. d'oh
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      03-20-2021, 08:32 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosstones View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
The upgrade bowden tube is a must if you're printing PETG or anything that requires higher extrusion temp. Was also one of the first mods I did.
Quote:
Originally Posted by odiford View Post
I started with an aluminum drive feed assembly (stock plastic flexes too much), a low tolerance bowden tube, and stiffer bed springs. All of this is <$50.

Later on I added a direct-drive conversion because I started printing super soft TPU and some iron-composites that were getting clogged in the bowden. This requires some adjustments in Cura to work properly but is very much worth it for materials other than ABS or PLA.

There are also a few mods you can 3D print which is pretty ironic, but most are convenience oriented like wire clips and such.

Editing to add that this is much like car build conversations where the best thing you can improve is the nut behind the wheel. Until you really get the hang of bed leveling and fine tuning slicer settings, you won't notice much difference from the new parts.
I ordered a different bowden tube off Amazon when I bough a couple of PLA spools. It's killing me that I'm still waiting for a shipping notice for the printer itself, though. I ordered it direct vs off Amazon. d'oh
Ya, I ordered mine off Amazon. Came in a few days. Maybe cancel and order from there?
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      03-20-2021, 11:24 AM   #40
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Ya, I ordered mine off Amazon. Came in a few days. Maybe cancel and order from there?
I'm not in an immediate need or anything but I'm tempted to do that if it drags on another week w/o shipping. The site said in stock when I ordered it (and still does). It was actually cheaper on the OE site (~$15), had free shipping, and I figured it might be easier to deal w/ any needed warranty claims (as needed) if I ordered direct.

I figured it would ship in a couple of days and then take a week for shipping. So much for patience and discipline in a world of instant gratification. lol. I'll ping them before I do anything.
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