[slingxshot]

Hello, few days I received a drive train error. Lost power, car went into neutral. Restarted the car and kept going.

Dropped at the dealer. They told me its your charger.. I am like what? What does the charger have anything t do with "drivetrain error"..

Anyway here are the notes from the tech

"Customer StatesRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION/ENGINE PERFORMANCE--TOWED IN Cause: 0050000 replaces 0000556 & 6121528 2nd test and charge Correction: PERFORMED VEHICLE TEST. MULTIPLE FAULTS RELATING TO AC CHARGING. PERFORMED TEST PLAN. TEST PLAN STATES TO UPDATE VEHICLE PROGRAMMING. TEST PLAN ALSO STATES POSSIBLE FAULT CAUSED BY CUSTOMER CHARGER. CLOSED SESSION AND MOVED VEHICLE TO PROGRAMMING STATION. CONNECTED BATTERY CHARGER AND PERFORMED ANOTHER VEHICLE TEST AND UPDATED VEHICLE SOFTWARE. AFTER PROGRAMMING PERFORMED EPS START UP, FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR ADJUSTMENT AND QUICK DELETE SERVICE FUNCTIONS. FAULTS STILL PRESENT AND UNABLE TO CHARGE WARNING ON DASH. LET VEHICLE SLEEP AND PLUGGED INTO CHARGING OUTLET UNTIL BLUE. WOKE UP VEHICLE AND CLEARED FAULTS AGAIN AND NO FAULTS RETURNED, ALL OK DIAGCODE D6144 LIM00000 90 202"

Is it possible? How would a charger issue cause this while driving????

Thanks!

[vreihen16]

I vaguely remember this being a common issue with early i3 models, caused by water incursion into the battery module. Maybe I'm going crazy, though?

Has the 12V accessory battery been changed recently?????

[slingxshot]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

I vaguely remember this being a common issue with early i3 models, caused by water incursion into the battery module. Maybe I'm going crazy, though?

Has the 12V accessory battery been changed recently?????

this is 2018 model...

[TimeFor]

Originally Posted by slingxshot

Restarted the car and kept going

I've had these issues 4 or 5 times on three different i3's. Its a glitch or something. Or a sensor gets a bad reading. who knows... Scary when it happens but its not a real fault. Just restart the car like you said and everything is fine. I think the worse case I had to shut the car off for a couple of minutes and then it started without any errors displayed.

[MsGoGoMoto]

12v battery in the front of the vehicle. When this thing starts going, you get codes and errors like the world is ending.
I have a 2017 I got in May, and the 12v battery was the first thing I had replaced a week later. There were NO issues for me to do this, just did a CRAPLOAD of research and video watching before I made my purchase. Original 12v battery was in the car.

So, you have a 2018 model which puts your 12v battery at most (maybe) 6 months older than vehicle manufacture date. Would start with the 12v battery. You can try to get it out to see the MFR date. New costs $130 ish. Dealer can install for $380. I had the dealer put mine in this go around as a one time thing since I just bought the car, and it's not routine like an oil change.

I don't know how to replace brake fluid, but I think I can change my Rex oil and add coolant.
I don't want to break anything either. Lol.

[vreihen16]

I would definitely get the brake fluid change done (and documented) at the dealer every two years...regardless of miles driven. (Mine is actually a month overdue now.)

I've been keeping a close eye on my 12V accessory battery ever since I bought my 2015 BEV car. The battery is 6 years old now, and *well* beyond the usual 3-4 year lifetime. Maybe it sees less stress on a non-REx car?????

[MsGoGoMoto]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

I would definitely get the brake fluid change done (and documented) at the dealer every two years...regardless of miles driven. (Mine is actually a month overdue now.)

I've been keeping a close eye on my 12V accessory battery ever since I bought my 2015 BEV car. The battery is 6 years old now, and *well* beyond the usual 3-4 year lifetime. Maybe it sees less stress on a non-REx car?????

I'm about 4 mos overdue on the brake fluid change….. well I need to check my vehicle service history I got from dealer when 12v battery got swapped. The brake service light came on when I got the car. Said 3/2021 but I got the car in may ( just got it). Getting it done next week at dealer once I confirmed not been done..
Oil for Rex is going to pop up next month.

Original battery on the 2015? Good lord!!!! That's awesome, but I would get it changed soon just to head off any inconveniences.

[vreihen16]

Originally Posted by MsGoGoMoto

Original battery on the 2015? Good lord!!!! That's awesome, but I would get it changed soon just to head off any inconveniences.

Since I am 100% WFH and have The Mighty Dodge available if I need to go anywhere, I have not been sweating the 12V failing. My thinking is to avoid having a new battery start the aging clock when I'm not driving the car any further than a nearby gas station (non-BEV irony) to get an $0.89 slushie every Thursday afternoon.

The brake fluid change, on the other hand, I really need to schedule that for August.....

[AskAboutMyParkingIssues]

I successfully fixed this problem with my i3!
Info screen showing messages "Transmission not in park" and "Drivetrain: Cont. driving, contact service center".
The problem seemed to be that the parking lock module that sits on top of the motor unit (which is really easy to access by pulling up the trunk floor) lost its calibration position.
I fixed the problem by replacing the module (3 torx bolts and an electrical connector), and then performing a parking lock module initialization through a scan tool.
The scan tool that worked perfectly for me is the FOXWELL NT510 Elite scan tool for BMW, available on amazon for around $180.
I suspect that the old parking module was fine and didn't need to be replaced, just re-calibrated, but I’m not going to swap the old part back in to check.