[hk5er]

Originally Posted by hk5er

Great post! Thanks for sharing. Am thinking of changing the iX emblem from chrome to bronze so as to match the sports package. I wonder if the placement is the same or slightly different if it’s bronze. Any M60 owner care to share the placement details? Thanks so much!

Answering my own post 😅

I’ve decided to take the plunge and replace the only matt silver pieces on the exterior of the car for M Sports package iX where everything else is black apart from the chosen body colour for a better look. Removed the xDrive emblem for good. Sent the car in for ceramic coating before putting the new emblem on. Measurements if you are interested to know. Cheers!

[Road Trip]

Thanks all for this thread especially the OP and VG. While I normally remove some badges, this thread had me going over tons and tons of iX pictures and in this case I am agreeing with most that it looks better with the fender badges on it.

Going to install them before I put the ceramic coating on the car.

[Road Trip]

Installed. First pic on this thread of their being on Phytonic.

[Paladin1]

Good job!

[Road Trip]

Thanks. Thanks to all who contributed to creating this thread; could note have done this well without your posts above. I followed their individual and collective advice and the old carpenter’s mantra, “measure twice, cut once” in a revised form.

I chose instead of masking tape (for it would not stick to my recently ceramic coated vehicle), to use 200 mile duct tape on the two door handles, running a string from 5/16” up from the bottom of each of the metal door handle frames forward to the front, adjusting the front of the string to where is was a perfect, horizontal line. Then without removing the backing of the badge, with one hand placed it temporally touching but above the string, thenmeasured upward from its top edge of the badge to the seam where the bottom of my Titanium Bronze horizontal trim @ 6 1/8”; worked well on both sides (lining up perfectly on the horizontal string) and confirmed with my baby level. Lastly the put the rearmost edge of the badge 1 3/4” forward of the door edge opening. Pulled off the backing and carefully pressed it into the paint. So STICKY as many noted.

[Alderu]

Originally Posted by hk5er

Answering my own post 😅

I’ve decided to take the plunge and replace the only matt silver pieces on the exterior of the car for M Sports package iX where everything else is black apart from the chosen body colour for a better look. Removed the xDrive emblem for good. Sent the car in for ceramic coating before putting the new emblem on. Measurements if you are interested to know. Cheers!

Is it correct that the lower site isn't straight, but bit out of line? Do you have more measurements?

[hk5er]

Originally Posted by Alderu

Is it correct that the lower site isn't straight, but bit out of line? Do you have more measurements?

Hope this helps

[Alderu]

Originally Posted by hk5er

Hope this helps

Thx, it sure does 👍

[therealkenc]

M side badges on Oxide Grey. Photos are taken from a little far away, but I thought they might be useful for seeing the alignment with the door handles and other body lines. Couldn’t have done this without the tips from this thread, so thank you all! Painters tape and a level (and some pre-application alcohol wipes) did the trick.

[johnwc723]

I know this is not the jam of many on this forum, but I decided to go with the original M colors to add my side badge.

I went with the dimensions of 1.5 inches away from the door gap and I used a straight edge to make the bottom of the emblem lineup with the bottom of the front door handles. Note it is not level I used a level, but the doorhandles are not level either.

I’ll let you know how it holds up with these guys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/40438430289...mis&media=COPY

[Alderu]

Fender badges:

why so difficult with laser etc.

The way I see it, is that I need some measurements; see picture !! Who will give me these ?

Thx in advance !!

[Alderu]

Nobody ??

[Paladin1]

How about these, posted on the first page of this thread, in the first post? That not enough (from ChuckChoi )?

[Alderu]

Hi Paladin1, yes indeed, I saw these. But I don’t know or the distance of 18 cm at the top is on both sides. Because when I read well, the badge isn’t mounted straight……. So p.e. 18 cm and other sude 17,7 ?

[Paladin1]

As per the thread, you are not going to get within tenths of a millimeter. The badges are not mirror images, so will be different on each side. Take a look at the distance from the door edge to the closest part of the badge, and the bottom of the trim edge at the top to the bottom or the top of each badge. Parallel the bottom of the badges to the bottom of the door handles - they're not parallel to the ground or the bottom of the car (post #5) - hence the laser used by some. That's 3 reference points and that's all you need. Use painter's tape to define where you want to place the badges, even tape them to the door to see how they look (post #6). That's as close as you're going to get to factory - don't overthink it. You are placing the badges visually where they look symmetrical and correct. There's no template or jig, and everyone here did it the same way. The only caveat is that once you remove the backing and press them to the door, they're there to stay, so measure several times and work slowly. Be sure you've done the surface prep - clean the area (plain alcohol is fine) and don't touch the sticky backing on the badge. You can remove the badges with a heat gun and dental floss or fishing line, but you're probably looking at new badges if you position them wrong - you get one chance.

[Alderu]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

As per the thread, you are not going to get within tenths of a millimeter. The badges are not mirror images, so will be different on each side. Take a look at the distance from the door edge to the closest part of the badge, and the bottom of the trim edge at the top to the bottom or the top of each badge. Parallel the bottom of the badges to the bottom of the door handles - they're not parallel to the ground or the bottom of the car (post #5) - hence the laser used by some. That's 3 reference points and that's all you need. Use painter's tape to define where you want to place the badges, even tape them to the door to see how they look (post #6). That's as close as you're going to get to factory - don't overthink it. You are placing the badges visually where they look symmetrical and correct. There's no template or jig, and everyone here did it the same way. The only caveat is that once you remove the backing and press them to the door, they're there to stay, so measure several times and work slowly. Be sure you've done the surface prep - clean the area (plain alcohol is fine) and don't touch the sticky backing on the badge. You can remove the badges with a heat gun and dental floss or fishing line, but you're probably looking at new badges if you position them wrong - you get one chance.

[Alderu]

Originally Posted by hk5er

Hope this helps

I bought a laser with magnetes to line up the badges on the front fender.

But the laser doesn’t stick to the door !!

HOW did people solve this problem ? Attache laser with ducktape to the door ?

[Paladin1]

The door is aluminum. If you use a laser (which you don't actually need) you need a standard construction laser with a vacuum suction, like this (mentioned several posts up in this same thread:

https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-ELL1002...s%2C103&sr=8-6

[LuisBoston]

Originally Posted by ChuckChoi

I don't understand why the USA spec M60 are optioned with "3DZ Without Additional Designation Outside" (M logo is removed from the side fenders) from the factory. While the rest of the world get the M logos. Why?!?!

If anyone interested in adding the M logos, here are the measurements that I have. Although it's not the official measurement, but I found it is very close to the real deal. Just make sure to have a level tool or a laser level handy.

The part number is 51145A3F9B3 and ECSTuning do have them in stock and are shipped from the US for around $51 each. [...]

Im glad mine doesn’t have the 3rd side ///Marketing logo. There is already one on the wheel and on the brake caliper.

[Alderu]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

The door is aluminum. If you use a laser (which you don't actually need) you need a standard construction laser with a vacuum suction, like this (mentioned several posts up in this same thread:

https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-ELL1002...s%2C103&sr=8-6