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      08-10-2010, 12:43 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Bread View Post
Have you considered the Edge 2.45 rims with Dura Ace hubs? Since Edge has a lot more history with full carbon clinchers, and the 2.45s are super stiff, I think I'd lean this route. A set laced 2x with 24f and 28r should be just about bomb proof.

I ride with a few guys on the new 404 cc, but haven't really checked them out too closely. They don't seem to have any issues with them, but I don't know of many issues with any carbon clinchers, Edge, Easton or Reynolds (aside from most Reynolds being a little flexy and their suspect hub quality).
I haven't... kind of always thought that EDGE wheels were ridiculously expensive. Also the weight limit on their site is a bit dismal for someone my size.
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      08-10-2010, 01:48 PM   #90
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What sunglasses do u guys wear when riding? Im having a hard time finding a good pair that wont let air through while riding
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      08-10-2010, 01:54 PM   #91
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I'm using a pair of Oakley Half Jackets with a few different lenses depending on when I ride.

Most of the time I use their "Persimmon" lens since I'm typically riding early AM when it's still a bit dark. These filter out enough that I can ride along the lake when the sun is rising, but they aren't so dark that they leave me blind when I go under a few underpasses during the ride.

I've also got a set of clear lenses for night riding and a set of black polarized for when I'm riding during the day.
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      08-10-2010, 01:56 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweak84 View Post
What sunglasses do u guys wear when riding? Im having a hard time finding a good pair that wont let air through while riding
I just bought a cheap pair ($40 +-) from performance bike. I was wearing my favorite REVOs, but I would hate to smash those on the trail, or road.

Get something that you don't mind breaking.
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      08-10-2010, 02:10 PM   #93
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I haven't... kind of always thought that EDGE wheels were ridiculously expensive. Also the weight limit on their site is a bit dismal for someone my size.
Looks like I can get a set of EDGE wheels built up for a few huno more than the Zipps and save about 500g. I'm just unsure of the weight limit of the rim though. I read somewhere that EDGE wheels (at least the OEM versions with radial lacing) were only rated up to 190lbs. With the custom builds I'd be going for 24/28 with double butted spokes laced in a 2/3 cross pattern on the front/rear, so that might be good enough.
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      08-10-2010, 02:49 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyd View Post
Looks like I can get a set of EDGE wheels built up for a few huno more than the Zipps and save about 500g. I'm just unsure of the weight limit of the rim though. I read somewhere that EDGE wheels (at least the OEM versions with radial lacing) were only rated up to 190lbs. With the custom builds I'd be going for 24/28 with double butted spokes laced in a 2/3 cross pattern on the front/rear, so that might be good enough.
I think they're being conservative on their site, just CYA. Plus the complete wheels sold as Edge have DT Swiss 240 hubs (or 190's as an upgrade) and they're not the greatest hubs, due to narrow flange angles, relative to other hubs.

Edge stuff might not be seen under the sponsored pros as much as Zipp or Lightweight/Carbonsports stuff, but it's really, really good stuff and builds fantastic wheels. Lots of cyclocross guys are using them with plenty of success. Of course that's mostly the tubular version, which comes in a more robust version, the 2.45, like I mentioned earlier, but there's only one version of the clincher rim in the 45mm height. It's a great one though, and built with plenty of spokes in a 2x or 3x pattern, should be nice and strong for you.

CBike up your way appears to still have their 20% off sale on, but excludes Zipp. D'oh!
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      08-10-2010, 05:29 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyd View Post
You can find everything at your LBS, but it might be a tad more expensive.


The tune up is somethign that you will need at around the 100 mile mark (all new bikes need one). Essentially all of your shifter cables/brake cables will have stretched a bit from use and everything will need to be dialed back in. It should only take a few minutes to adjust everything. The 100 miles is just a average interval. In the weeks after you buy you might notice your bike making noises while shifting/not braking as effectively, etc. This signals that you need the tune-up. Might be only after 50 miles. *shrug*

which cages did you get? i wanna make sure i get some good ones. i read about 3 different reviews and people keep saying that some cages suck and what not. so what tools are usually necessary to do a tune up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Buegie View Post
Your brake and shifter cables are going to stretch through use. Things will need to be adjusted afterwards. It's a simple procedure to adjust your own gears, something you should learn how to do, but have the shop do it in the beginning if you're not confident.

did you guys learn how to this these tune up from your lbs or is it years of experience with bikes?
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      08-10-2010, 05:42 PM   #96
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which cages did you get? i wanna make sure i get some good ones. i read about 3 different reviews and people keep saying that some cages suck and what not. so what tools are usually necessary to do a tune up.
I've got two blackburn carbon cages. I got them here...

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22358139___553

Haven't ejected a bottle yet and i've got to admit they do look really nice.

It's your money and I certainly won't tell you how to spend it, but personally I don't know how I'd feel about shelling out the equivalent of 20% of the total cost of my new bike on a couple bottle cages. If I were you and just getting in to the sport, there is nothing a $9.00 cage from Walmart won't do that mine will. Just my $.02


Quote:
Originally Posted by lopealle View Post
did you guys learn how to this these tune up from your lbs or is it years of experience with bikes?
For me, it's just experience. I used to ride Mt. Bikes almost exclusively. Few weeks of thrashing around the woods makes you a pretty good mechanic. LOL. You either figure it out or you walk home.

I've gotta imagine that the situation would be worse on a road bike though where you could find yourself 20-30 miles away from home and have a breakdown.
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      08-10-2010, 05:52 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lopealle View Post
did you guys learn how to this these tune up from your lbs or is it years of experience with bikes?
I've only been riding seriously for about two years, you pick things up quickly. Bikes aren't nearly as complicated to work on as cars, for instance. You can learn almost everything you need to know through youtube or other sites like the Park Tool website:

Park Tool

Doing a basic tune up isn't complicated. I usually just clean/degrease everything and then lube the chain. And if the gears need to be adjusted it's just a matter of adjusting cable tension and/or adjusting the limit screws. A nice stand might be on your wish list in the future if you really get into the sport. Taking the bike to the lbs for every repair can get expensive and time consuming. This is what I have:

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      08-10-2010, 11:25 PM   #98
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I picked up this stand last time it was on sale.
Spin Doctor

I'm pretty happy with it.
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      08-11-2010, 07:11 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyd View Post
I've got two blackburn carbon cages. I got them here...

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar...22358139___553

Haven't ejected a bottle yet and i've got to admit they do look really nice.

It's your money and I certainly won't tell you how to spend it, but personally I don't know how I'd feel about shelling out the equivalent of 20% of the total cost of my new bike on a couple bottle cages. If I were you and just getting in to the sport, there is nothing a $9.00 cage from Walmart won't do that mine will. Just my $.02

you are definitely right about spending that much money on cages just hold a beverage. i will definitely pass on that one.


For me, it's just experience. I used to ride Mt. Bikes almost exclusively. Few weeks of thrashing around the woods makes you a pretty good mechanic. LOL. You either figure it out or you walk home.

I've gotta imagine that the situation would be worse on a road bike though where you could find yourself 20-30 miles away from home and have a breakdown.
that would suck ass big time. i know i would be pissed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Buegie View Post
I've only been riding seriously for about two years, you pick things up quickly. Bikes aren't nearly as complicated to work on as cars, for instance. You can learn almost everything you need to know through youtube or other sites like the Park Tool website:

Park Tool

Doing a basic tune up isn't complicated. I usually just clean/degrease everything and then lube the chain. And if the gears need to be adjusted it's just a matter of adjusting cable tension and/or adjusting the limit screws. A nice stand might be on your wish list in the future if you really get into the sport. Taking the bike to the lbs for every repair can get expensive and time consuming. This is what I have:

Feedback Pro Elite
it sounds pretty eas i must say. and i am somewwhat mechanically inclined so i think i could handle it after the first 2 trips to the lbs
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      08-11-2010, 08:17 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lopealle View Post
it sounds pretty eas i must say. and i am somewwhat mechanically inclined so i think i could handle it after the first 2 trips to the lbs

You totally can.. just ask the mechanic if you can watch him do the adjustments and have him walk you through what he is doing.

Most mechanics are nerds (in a good way) and like to teach, so it's a win/win.
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      08-11-2010, 12:05 PM   #101
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congrats on getting a road bike and welcome to the awesome world of Fred-dom and lycra and everything carbon fiber!

my few pointers to you would be (in no order of importance):
1) don't worry about what anyone else is doing
2) learn everything about your bike and work on it yourself
3) ride a lot and do so safely...read up on how not to get hit by a car
4) get a couple pairs of shorts with chamois that FIT
5) keep your drivetrain clean but not so clean that it isn't lubed. balance.
6) most speed is free (train consistently, challenge yourself, and learn to ride in an aero position)
7) learn how to change a flat and keep a spare tube(s), levers, and pump or cartridge on you at all times
8) drink one bottle of water per hour on the bike
9) have fun and don't be put off by the douches who think that they're pros. they're not pros. they're douches.
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      08-11-2010, 12:05 PM   #102
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oh yeah, here's my "whip"
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      08-11-2010, 12:23 PM   #103
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oh yeah, here's my "whip"
Did u post those pics on BF? I feel like I've seen those before
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      08-11-2010, 01:15 PM   #104
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Did u post those pics on BF? I feel like I've seen those before
no, but that bike was purchased with 600 miles on it from a guy out in Utah so it's possible that he posted it up since it was a custom build.
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      08-11-2010, 02:06 PM   #105
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that bike looks awesome. and thanks for the tips. here is a pic of the bike that i should be receiving today....
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      08-11-2010, 02:13 PM   #106
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awesome man. just get out there and go explore, and if you're doing it for the cardio ride with some pace and do intervals periodically.

cycling is kind of strange...like when you're riding it hurts and you want to stop almost as much as you want to keep going. but then when you're home and cooled off you can't stop thinking about it. it is addictive just like everyone says.
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      08-11-2010, 02:29 PM   #107
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i forgot to list the specs.. is there anything youg uys think i should twesk or change as a first time rider? im trying to make this experience fantastic


Frame
Road Tuned T7 Double-Butted Aluminum, features bottle cage mounts, rear rack mounts and replaceable rear derailleur hanger

Fork
Kinesis StraightBlade Carbon Fiber 700c with 1 inch steerer tube

Derailleurs
Shimano Sora RD3300GS Triple rear, Shimano FD2203 Triple front

Shifters
Shimano STI ST2303 (integrated brake and shift levers)

Brakes
Tektro 510AG Forged Aluminum Dual Pull

Hubs
Formula Sealed Bearing, Forged Aluminum shell, Anodized black finish

Rims
Alex RACE 28, Black Anodized AERO Profile Technology, DoubleWall, Machined Sidewalls for enhanced braking power / Custom Radial laced front wheel

Crank/BB
FSA Tempo Forged Aluminum arms,Triple 52/42/30T / Cartridge SQ taper

Cassette/Chain
8 Speed 12-25T / KMC Z-51

Saddle
Velo Ergo-Road (turbo style with comfort channel)

Seatpost/Stem
Kalloy Aluminum seatpost and stem for threadless system

Handlebars/Headset
Ergo Aluminum standard 26.0mm diameter (not oversized) / CaneCreek 1.125" Contact-sealed, Cage Ball Bearing

Pedals
Traditional Clip/Strap Road pedals (free bonus, not shown)

Tires Michelin Dynamic 700X23c
Color BlackMagic (as shown) Note: Some bikes are GlossBlack, no sparkles. Cannot choose.
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      08-11-2010, 02:30 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellipsis212 View Post
cycling is kind of strange...like when you're riding it hurts and you want to stop almost as much as you want to keep going. but then when you're home and cooled off you can't stop thinking about it.
truth.
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      08-11-2010, 02:34 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellipsis212 View Post
awesome man. just get out there and go explore, and if you're doing it for the cardio ride with some pace and do intervals periodically.

cycling is kind of strange...like when you're riding it hurts and you want to stop almost as much as you want to keep going. but then when you're home and cooled off you can't stop thinking about it. it is addictive just like everyone says.
i know exactly how you feel. when i was younger and i use to ride. it use to be that way.
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      08-11-2010, 02:47 PM   #110
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i forgot to list the specs.. is there anything youg uys think i should twesk or change as a first time rider? im trying to make this experience fantastic.
The saddle for sure. But only if the one that ships on it sucks. In my experience most OEM saddles suck. *shrug*

It's important to ride the one that comes with the bike for a while so you have a base line of what works/doesn't work. A good seat unfortunately will be expensive, which is why you want to do your homework first, but the good news is you can transfer it over to a new bike in a year or so if your interest takes off and decide to invest in a nicer bike.

Getting measured for a saddle is almost as important as getting measured for a bike, so make sure you get this done before investing in an expensive saddle. Most bike shops should be able to measure your "sit-bones" for you at no charge, especially if you buy a saddle from them.

Unfortunately, everyone's physiology is different so you'll have to go with what works best for you based on your measurements. So when looking at on-line reviews for seats take everything said with a grain of salt since what works for the reviewer, might not work for you.

Quick tip when looking for a saddle: Padding DOES NOT equal comfort. You'll find that with the proper riding shorts padding will actually cause more harm than good... so spare yourself the huge-ass seat with a full gel cover on it.


Semi-Related FYI: Expect to be a little sore in your taint area for a few days once you start riding. You'll really only feel this in the first couple weeks of riding and the feeling should subside when you are off your bike. If it persists after you are off your bike or it actually is painful, then chances are you need a new saddle. Eventually this will away and become a non-issue, but in the beginning your body needs a bit of time to adapt to the pressure in this region. What you DON'T want is anything going numb. If that is happening, look into a new saddle immediately.


Probably a good idea to pick up some Chamois Cream/Body Glide, etc. This will all but eliminate chafing which can happen any time there is constant movement against the skin... this will get applied to your "junk" in the areas that would be most prone to chaffing (the parts pressing on the seat).



The rest of it, just ride until it breaks.

Last edited by Feyd; 08-11-2010 at 02:57 PM.
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